Summer Dress Prima

Yesterday I braved the crowds at Northlands to check out the Lincraft 30% off sale. Happily they had the pattern I wanted (Simplicity 2925) in the size I needed (big), and even the fabric I had in mind. A record!

I spent Little Jack's naps yesterday and today sewing and I've finished my first dress for the summer.


I confess it looks slightly different if I stand front-on to the camera, but I learned to Skinny Pose years ago thanks to Dolly magazine.

The fabric is a black linen/cotton blend. I haven't been a linen gal in the past but I love the red linen/viscose skirt I found during my holiday, and after reading Thea & Sami's recent post on the sustainability of flax I was determined to give linen a try in my wardrobe.

For the contrast I bought two fabrics, a green and black patterned satin and the purple and black stretch cotton I've used. I really love green and black together but didn't really want to mix polyester satin with linen. I asked Hubby T which I should use and he was surprisingly helpful. He asked what I'd wear the dress with and I said my red sandals (they're Homy Ped and fit my orthotics so I'll be wearing them every day of summer). I didn't want to wear red and green together this side of Christmas so purple won out.


The style is more sophisticated than I'd usually wear in a day dress, and made in linen the dress feels very mature to me (who recently celebrated fitting back into my cherry-printed polkadot shirtwaist dress for the first time in two years). The fit is loose and easy which makes the difference between a summer day dress and a dressy evening dress.

I was thinking of making this style in the tunic length as a work top, but the armhole is cut very low and shows whatever bra (boob tube, by necessity) you're wearing underneath. For reference check the armhole in the first photo! The armholes would have the be raised at least 4cm to make this style suitable for office wear.

I decided to use the contrast fabric for the facings the way one would with a kids' dress. It was a bit of a mistake as the gathered neckline forces the facing to roll outwards, but I'm probably the only one in a position to notice it.

The only change I made in construction was putting in an invisible zip before sewing the centre back seam. The method instructs to baste the straps at the front before sewing on the facing and leave a gap to insert them at the back. This lead to the curve of the straps being completely off-kilter with the curve of the neckline and I had to unpick my overlocking and reset them. Every time I think I've learned to check the positioning of straps before overlocking, I go and do it again! Next time I will baste them at the back and insert them afterwards at the front, or leave gaps front and back and insert them after the facing has been attached so I can certain the curves match.

Overall I'm quite pleased with the pattern and the dress. This style could even work as a second semester maternity top with no alterations as there's no belt loops and the belt can be worn wherever your waistline happens to be. I'm looking forward to making the variety with sleeves in cooler weather and may even attempt the trousers. Or remember past experiences and not.*

Will this be my final completed project for 2009? That all depends on if I find something I like at the Tessuti sale, or perhaps throw everything I've got at my Mod Bag. Or attempt both.

How much can I manage in three sewing days? Time will tell...

* I can sew trousers quite well, but it's generally a folly to try to fit a commercial trouser pattern to my booty.